VS1005 Hi-Res Player DIY enclosure

Designing hardware that use VLSI Solution's devices as the system controller for the entire design.
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plywood_labs
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VS1005 Hi-Res Player DIY enclosure

Post by plywood_labs » Wed 2018-04-04 6:27

Cover_image.jpg
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Dear VS1005 users, here are design files for the VS1005 Hi-Res Player I've designed (as seen here viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2134)

The project files and design itself are free for both commercial and private use. Since it is free, it's provide as is with no warranty whatsoever


The goals of the project were to create a design of enclosure that would look good, could be manufactured using relatively simple production methods (i.e. laser/water jet/CNC routing) and would reuse materials and parts already in possession (or easy to obtain locally cheap materials and parts).
Therefore it was decided to use these materials:
  • 3.7mm plywood (nominally it is 4mm plywood but in reality the actual thickness may vary from 4.2mm to 3.6mm) which was already in possession (in form of roughly A4 size) sheets
  • 1.5mm clear/transparent PMMA (acrylic glass namely Plexiglas XT) which was already in possession in form of roughly 700x700mm sheet
  • 0.5mm and 1mm anodised aluminium (unfortunately anodised aluminium was cost prohibitive to obtain in small quantities, so a brushed aluminium was used instead; i.e. a plane aluminium was sanded in X patten using 2500 grit sand paper and water then polished with aluminium polish)
  • 10x10x1mm anodised aluminium angle
  • vinyl films of different colours
  • a piece of clear 0.6mm plastic from blister packaging
  • fasteners (i.e. screws and bronze/brass inserts from recycled notebooks enclosures)
  • two epoxy types (LOCTITE EA 3430 clear one for plastic to aluminium/aluminium to plywood bonding and LOCTITE EA 3450 grey one for aluminium to aluminium bonding)
  • a wood glue (to join plywood sections together)
The enclosure (parts seen outside) is comprised of:
  • plywood sections joined together with glue to form an outer shell which holds other elements together
  • 1mm aluminium back plate (attached to plywood shell using clear epoxy)
  • 1mm aluminium front plate with 1mm aluminium buttons with cut out icons (cut out space is filled with clear epoxy to prevent accumulation of dirt and dust)
  • 1.5mm PMMA LCD screen cover backed by 0.5mm aluminium plate with cut out icons which are joint together with clear epoxy (make sure that all the voids are completely filled with epoxy otherwise it will not look good or alternatively use thin (0.1 or so mm) double-sided clear adhesive tape)
  • 1mm aluminium front (that side where all the output jacks are located) and rear covers (the rear one is attached with two screws)
Internally the enclosure consists of:
  • 1mm aluminium base/carrier plate which slides in to the groves/guides in the plywood shell
  • Under the base plate a 0.6mm thick plastic plate is affixed with double-sided adhesive tape and a screw. This plastic plate is used to hold the battery (battery is affixed with two strips of double-sided adhesive tape) and it is need to ease the disassembly process since the battery covers two other screws going through the base plate
  • On top of the base plate 3 3.9mm hight brass inserts a mounted (serves as spacers) which are attached to the plate with 3 M2.3x3mm screws. The brass insert located under the LCD screen needs to be filed down (where it comes in contact with the PCB) as shown in the 3D model, since a resistor is located dangerously close to the mount hole. Please also note that the holes in the PCB are 2mm in diameter so ether a thinner screws should be used or the hole should be widened to 2.3-2.4mm (I've used the later option)
  • The player PCB rests on the above mentioned brass inserts and is affixed to these inserts with two M2.3x5.8mm and one M2.3x3.8mm (located under the LCD screen) screws
  • On top of the keypad area a 1.5mm PMMA plate with cut outs for buttons is located. Above this plate a 1mm aluminium plate with cut outs for buttons is placed (the two are joined together with clear epoxy). This "sandwich" (so to speak) is affixed with the above mentioned two M2.3x5.8mm screws. Also mounted on to the "sandwich" are rubber/silicone springs for the key caps from an old notebook keyboard
Such as these
DSC_0920.JPG
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  • On the same "sandwich" just above the LEDs a 1mm black foam (from an old mousepad or double-sided adhesive foam) piece is attached. It is there to reduce the light bleed from/between LEDs
  • The same purpose (to reduce the light bleed from/between LEDs) a strip of black vinyl self adhesive film is attached on the PMMA plate where it faces LEDs
  • An LCD screen is attached with thinner (then originally - 1.4mm new vs 1.6mm stock) double-sided adhesive tape/foam to reduce the profile (you would have to remove the LCD screen anyway to mount the screw)
  • Above the keypad key caps sub carrier plates (two plates, each for a separate set of keys) are located. These plates are used to affix key caps and provide spring action (using the above mentioned rubber/silicone springs). Also attached to these plates are rubber (grey colour ones in the image bellow) bumpers. These bumpers are used to actually press the buttons. To ease assembly by providing precise mount location cut outs are done (an engraving could be used but not all cutting services can do engraving and cutting hence it is easier to do these as a cut outs rather then engraving)
A001.jpg
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  • The key caps are attached to the carrier plates with grey epoxy. As already mentioned, these key caps have cut out icons which are filled in with a clear epoxy to prevent accumulation of dirt and dust
  • Around the outer carrier plate a 1mm aluminium spacer plate is located which in turns is attached to the 1mm aluminium face plate (with grey epoxy). The face plates also prevents both carrier plates from falling out of the enclosure in the upwards direction
  • The face plate together with the spacer plate are attached to the plywood shell using clear epoxy
B001.jpg
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  • Above the LCD screen is located a 1.5mm PMMA LCD screen cover backed by 0.5mm aluminium plate, this "sandwich" is attached to the plywood shell using clear epoxy. Under the 0.5mm aluminium plate just below the VS1005 Hi-Res logo, a white self adhesive vinyl film is attached to provide white background for the logo. To cover the internal 0.5mm aluminium plate surface (which is unfinished i.e. not brushed and polished in this particular case) a black vinyl self adhesive film is attached.
C001.jpg
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  • 1mm aluminium front (that side where all the output jacks are located) cover is attached to the carrier plate via two aluminium 10x10x1mm angle segments. These segments are fixed to the front cover with grey epoxy and are attached to the carrier plate with two M1.8x5mm screw and bronze inserts
  • 1mm rear cover is attached to the carrier plate via an aluminium 10x10x1mm angle segment with four M1.8x5mm screw and bronze inserts (two to mate the angle to the carrier plate and the other two to fix the rear cover). The rear cover used to also hold the PCB module (comprised of all the parts affixed to the carrier plate) in place after it is fully inserted in to the enclosure (from the LCD screen side towards the key caps using a 70x45mm piece of laser printer film placed above the keypad area to depress the rubber springs; the film is then carefully extracted after the PCB module is fully in) using two M1.8x5mm screws
D001.jpg
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External links to the project files are provide below. These are five .rar archives namely:

Enclosure_2D&3D.rar - 3D model of the enclosure with all the internal parts (DWG & DXF files), 2D general outline of the enclosure with main dimensions (DWG, DXF, PDF files) and photos of the ready enclosure (mainly internal parts)
Enclosure_parts_fot_cutting.rar - all the main parts that should be cut by the cutting company (laser cut for aluminium parts and CNC routed for PMMA and plywood parts, some parts may be cut by hand since are not that complicate in shape), DWG, DXF and PDF files are included
Gift_packaging.rar - DWG, DXF, PDF files that were used to make the gift packaging (the device itself was meant to be as a gift) plus some photos of the ready items
Player_PCB.rar - general 2D DWG & DXF drawing of the VS1005 Hi-Res Player board with all the relevant (to the project) parts it was created since it was need to design the enclosure
Test_bed.rar - DWG, DXF & PDF files of the test bed board I've made for my brother's software development effort (yes, it is a team effort!)

Links:
Enclosure_2D&3D.rar https://www60.zippyshare.com/v/YSA5Clno/file.html
Enclosure_parts_fot_cutting.rar https://www60.zippyshare.com/v/85Q2Hu2x/file.html
Gift_packaging.rar https://www60.zippyshare.com/v/QbWnN8Qt/file.html
Player_PCB.rar https://www60.zippyshare.com/v/twxJSItg/file.html
Test_bed.rar https://www60.zippyshare.com/v/K0ruARRl/file.html

All the drawings were created using AutoCAD 2008 and were saved in 2000 file version (for compatibility reasons). These can be opened using free DWG TrueView software from Autodesk (Windows only; view, print and measure only) or NOT so free Autodesk AutoCAD (although a 30 day trial version can be used).

All the parts to be cut were initially planned to be water jet cut (since it is the only technology that can cut all the materials used in the project and provide good cosmetic results), but due to how local businesses operate (i.e. most deal only with large parts/large volumes hence all the tooling is geared towards large size parts) in the end non of the parts were water jet cut at all. Aluminium parts were laser cut. PMMA parts were CNC routed (they could also do the plywood, but unfortunately the smallest end mill they have is 2mm in diameter whereas a 1mm is needed in the project; these do exist but are too expensive for the quantities used in the project). I wanted to avoid cutting plywood with laser since it produces an ugly cut. Unfortunately it was the only way to go. Hence the end result was mediocre at best (with all the sending to get the natural plywood edge colour and laser heat induced geometry distortions).

Any questions are welcome!
Last edited by plywood_labs on Sun 2018-08-05 14:18, edited 4 times in total.

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Panu
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Re: VS1005 Hi-Res Player DIY enclosure

Post by Panu » Thu 2018-04-05 9:08

Wow, that's really good looking!

Thanks a lot!

-Panu
Info: Line In and Line Out, VS1000 User interface, Overlay howto, Latest VSIDE, MCU Howto, Youtube
Panu-Kristian Poiksalo, VLSI Solution Oy

plywood_labs
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Posts: 6
Joined: Wed 2018-04-04 1:22

Re: VS1005 Hi-Res Player DIY enclosure

Post by plywood_labs » Sun 2018-05-27 20:04

Hello!

Here yet another version of the enclosure.This version is essentially of the same basic concept as the original one, only this time design of the plywood shell is "adjusted" to be manufacturable with 2mm diameter endmill. The rest of the parts are modified to fit the new shell. Also worth noting that in order to simplify the assembly process, all the external parts (i.e. LCD screen cover, key pad caps, key pad bezel) are slide in as a pre-assembled unit (contrary to the original design where most of the above mentioned were permanently attached to the plywood shell).

!!!The project files and design itself are free for both commercial and private use. Since it is free, it's provide as is with no warranty whatsoever
The project is "theoretical" only since no actual enclosure (or any part of it) was ever produced!!!


Part one of two (rendered images)

V2_001.jpg
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V2_002.jpg
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V2_003.jpg
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V2_004.jpg
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plywood_labs
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Posts: 6
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Re: VS1005 Hi-Res Player DIY enclosure

Post by plywood_labs » Sun 2018-05-27 20:30

Part two of two

Materials used (same as the original version):
  • 3.7mm plywood (nominally it is 4mm plywood but the actual thickness may vary from 4.2mm to 3.6mm)
  • 1.5mm clear/transparent PMMA (acrylic glass namely Plexiglas XT)
  • 0.5mm and 1mm anodised aluminium
  • 10x10x1mm anodised aluminium angle
  • black and white vinyl films
  • a piece of clear 0.6mm plastic from blister packaging
  • fasteners (i.e. screws and brass inserts from recycled notebooks enclosures)
  • two epoxy types (LOCTITE EA 3430 clear one for plastic to aluminium bonding and LOCTITE EA 3450 grey one for aluminium to aluminium bonding)
  • a wood glue (to join plywood sections together)
Externally enclosure consists of:
  • plywood shell (it holds all the main elements together) comprised of plywood sections joined together to form a single part
A.jpg
A.jpg (396.96 KiB) Viewed 349 times
  • 1mm thick aluminium back plate (attached to the plywood shell using clear epoxy glue)
  • key pad caps made of three layers of 1mm thick aluminium parts joined together with epoxy glue. The upper most layer is key caps with cut out icons which are filled in with a clear epoxy to prevent accumulation of dirt and dust. The next layer consists of two separate carrier plates (one for each of the two key groups). Underneath the carrier plates, reinforcement parts are attached (these also serve to press the switches' plungers down)
D.jpg
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  • key pad bezel made of two 1mm thick aluminium parts joined together with epoxy glue. Underneath these parts (to the inner surface) two layers of 1.5mm clear PMMA parts are attached (with clear epoxy glue). These are needed to provide spacing (hight wise) and also serve as an insertion alignment keys
  • LCD screen cover comprising of 1.5mm thick clear PMMA part backed by 0.5mm thick aluminium plate with cut out icons/logo. Underneath the 0.5mm thick aluminium plate, two layers of 1.5mm clear PMMA parts are attached (with clear epoxy glue). To form a single assembly, PMMA LCD screen cover and the rest of the parts are joined together with two 0.5mm thick aluminium side plates using clear epoxy glue. Under the 0.5mm thick aluminium plate a white (under the logo)and black (the rest of the plate) vinyl films are attached to protect the LCD screen. To reduce a light bleed between the LEDs, a black 2mm thick foam part is attached (with double sided adhesive tape) under the 0.5mm thick aluminium plate just above the LEDs
  • 1mm thick aluminium front (that side where all the output jacks are located) and rear covers (this one is attached to the rest of the enclosure with two external screws)
Internally the enclosure consists of:
  • 1mm aluminium carrier plate which slides in to the groves/guides in the plywood shell and provides internal mount points
  • Under the base plate a 0.6mm thick plastic plate is affixed with double-sided adhesive tape and a screw. This plastic plate is used to hold the battery (battery is affixed with two strips of double-sided adhesive tape) and it is need to ease the disassembly process since the battery covers two other screws going through the carrier plate
  • On top of the carrier plate three 3.9mm hight brass inserts a mounted (serves as spacers) which are attached to the plate with three M2.3x3mm screws. The brass insert located under the LCD screen needs to be filed down (where it comes in contact with the PCB) as shown in the 3D model, since a resistor is located dangerously close to the mount hole. Please also note that the holes in the PCB are 2mm in diameter so ether a thinner screws should be used or the holes should be widened to 2.3-2.4mm
  • The player PCB rests on the above mentioned brass inserts and is affixed to these inserts with two M2.3x5.8mm and one M2.3x3.8mm (located under the LCD screen) screws
B.jpg
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  • On top of the PCB keypad area a 1.5mm thick clear PMMA plate with cut outs for switches and LEDs is located. This plate covers almost the entire PCB and extends under the LCD screen (which is attached to the plate with double sided adhesive tape). In order for the LCD screen ribbon cables to fit, there is a cut out made in the PMMA plate. Above the PMMA plate, a 1mm thick aluminium plate with cut outs for switches and LEDs is placed (the two are joined together with clear epoxy glue). This aluminium plate has special cut outs for insertion alignment of the key pad bezel and the LCD screen cover assembly. Also mounted on to the "sandwich" are rubber/silicone springs (for the key caps) from old notebook keyboard. The entire "sandwich" (so to speak) is affixed to the PCB with the above mentioned two M2.3x5.8mm screws
C.jpg
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  • 1mm aluminium front (that side where all the output jacks are located) cover is attached to the carrier plate via two aluminium 10x10x1mm angle segments. These segments are fixed to the front cover with grey epoxy glue and are attached to the carrier plate with two M1.8x5mm screws and brass inserts
  • 1mm rear cover is attached to the carrier plate via an aluminium 10x10x1mm angle segment with four M1.8x5mm screw and brass inserts (two to mate the angle to the carrier plate and the other two to fix the rear cover). The rear cover is also used to hold the PCB module (comprised of all the parts affixed to the carrier plate) in place after it is fully inserted in to the enclosure
External link to the project file (this time 3D model only in DWG&DXF 2000 formats) is provide below:

https://www90.zippyshare.com/v/ZVIgspIX/file.html
Last edited by plywood_labs on Sun 2018-08-05 14:20, edited 1 time in total.

plywood_labs
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Re: VS1005 Hi-Res Player DIY enclosure

Post by plywood_labs » Sun 2018-05-27 23:08

Here yet another version of the enclosure. This version is very different from the other two. It is designed to be assembled predominantly (with few exceptions) out of CNC milled aluminium and plywood parts. The over key difference (perhaps the most important one) is that a modified (a non existing) PCB would be used. This PCB although for the most part is the same, has few modification made.

Namely:
  • instead of two separate TOSLINK and 3.5mm audio connectors, a TOSLINK/headphone jack combo is used (to save board space and to reduce overall hight of the unit)
  • micro SD card slot is replaced with push/push type slot and it is placed near the above mentioned TOSLINK/headphone jack combo (to ease the SD card swap)
  • battery power connector was replaced with the right angle one (to reduce overall hight of the unit). It is also located differently
  • PCB mount holes where repositioned (2 of 3) and enlarged (all; to provide better mounting options)

!!!The project files and design itself are free for both commercial and private use. Since it is free, it's provide as is with no warranty whatsoever
The project is "theoretical" only since no actual enclosure (or any part of it) was ever produced and it requires a non existing player PCB!!!



Part one of two (rendered images)

V3_001.jpg
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V3_003.jpg
V3_003.jpg (279.43 KiB) Viewed 346 times
V3_004.jpg
V3_004.jpg (269.65 KiB) Viewed 346 times
V3_005.jpg
V3_005.jpg (286.55 KiB) Viewed 346 times

plywood_labs
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Posts: 6
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Re: VS1005 Hi-Res Player DIY enclosure

Post by plywood_labs » Sun 2018-05-27 23:25

Part two of two

Materials used:
  • 24mm Baltic birch plywood (nominal thickness; actual thickness may vary from 22.9mm to 23.7mm)
  • anodised CNC milled aluminium
  • anodised laser cut 0.5mm thick aluminium
  • 1.5mm clear/transparent PMMA (acrylic glass namely Plexiglas XT)
  • 3mm black mat PMMA (acrylic glass namely Plexiglas XT)
  • black and white mat vinyl films
  • 1.5mm black foam
  • fasteners (M2 machine screws of two types - flat head ones and countersunk ones)
  • clear epoxy (i.e. LOCTITE EA 3430; for PMMA to aluminium bonding)
  • a wood glue (to join plywood sections together)
Externally enclosure consists of:
  • CNC milled anodised aluminium chassis to which both internal and external parts are affixed. Also attached to the chassis (with double-sided adhesive tape) is battery
  • CNC milled plywood side panels. These are comprised of four (per side) CNC milled and then glued together (to form a single part) Baltic birch plywood parts. These side panels are removable (i.e. are not permanently affixed to the enclosure)
A.jpg
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  • CNC milled anodised aluminium key pad bezel to which 1.5mm clear PMMA LCD screen cover is permanently attached (using clear epoxy glue) via 0.5mm thick aluminium plate with cut out icons/logo. Underneath the 0.5mm thick aluminium plate a white (under the logo)and black (the rest of the plate) vinyl films are attached to protect the LCD screen. To reduce a light bleed between the LEDs, a black 1.5mm thick black foam part is attached (with double sided adhesive tape) under the 0.5mm thick aluminium plate just above the LEDs
E.jpg
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  • CNC milled anodised aluminium key pad caps/keyboard with engraved icons. These two parts also have specific elements underside to align key pad, to press the switches and interact with the key pad spring plate below
  • CNC milled anodised aluminium front (that side where all the output jacks/connectors are located) and rear covers (this one is attached to the rest of the enclosure with two external screws)
  • CNC milled anodised aluminium key pad locking lever (only its knob is visible externally)

Internally the enclosure consists of:
  • CNC milled anodised aluminium carrier frame. PCB is attached to the frame with three M2 flat head machine screws. Both front and rear covers are attached to the frame via M2 countersunk machine screws (two per part). This frame also serves as a guide rail for the key pad locking lever to slide upon. The frame is attached to the chassis with four M2 countersunk machine screws (two per side)
B.jpg
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  • black mat PMMA key pad spring plate. It's located in the key pad area of the PCB. This plate is used to provide spring action to the keys and also holds them in the upper most position. Another purpose of the plate is to fix/lock the locking lever either in open or locked position. Also affixed to the plate is LCD screen (with double-sided adhesive tape). The plate is affixed (both to the chassis and the PCB) with the above mentioned three M2 flat head machine screws
D.jpg
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  • CNC milled anodised aluminium key pad locking lever. This lever is used to prevent the key pad (any of its keys) from being accidentally pressed by locking all the keys in the upper most position. The lever has two notches which mates with the corresponding locking pin provided by the above key pad spring plate, thus could be fixed either in open or locked position. To indicate the locking state (locked/unlocked) an indication mark is placed near the locking levers' knob (it is visible externally), where if the indication mark is visible, the lock is active and vice versa
C.jpg
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External links to the project files are provide below. These are 3D model of the enclosure (DWG&DXF formats of 2000 version) and 2D drawing of the modified PCB (DWG&DXF formats of 2000 version):

3D model
https://www113.zippyshare.com/v/7FOh2u7Z/file.html

2D PCB
https://www113.zippyshare.com/v/FTW9G0ev/file.html
Last edited by plywood_labs on Sun 2018-08-05 14:23, edited 1 time in total.

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Panu
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Posts: 2534
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Re: VS1005 Hi-Res Player DIY enclosure

Post by Panu » Mon 2018-05-28 9:02

Hi!

Beautiful case designs, as always!

Hmm, regarding the theoretical new PCB, it might be difficult to route the SD card, and possibly the toslink signals to the new positions because you must not route digital signals over the analog area if high end performance is sought. But it might be interesting to take a look.

-Panu
Info: Line In and Line Out, VS1000 User interface, Overlay howto, Latest VSIDE, MCU Howto, Youtube
Panu-Kristian Poiksalo, VLSI Solution Oy

plywood_labs
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Posts: 6
Joined: Wed 2018-04-04 1:22

Re: VS1005 Hi-Res Player DIY enclosure

Post by plywood_labs » Mon 2018-05-28 12:25

Beautiful case designs, as always!
Thank you!
...it might be difficult to route the SD card...
Hopefully it can be done :roll:

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